A guide to tomatoes and the best use for each type

>> Friday, July 17, 2009

Ready to hit the market in search of some great tomatoes this summer? Here's a guide to some of the more common varieties and how to make the most of them.

BEEFSTEAKS

These are your big, red globe tomatoes. They can weigh in at a pound or more, with a 6-inch diameter. They will mix a tangy, acid bite with a touch of sweetness, creating a classic rich flavor.

"They're akin to a Burgundy," says Lawrence Davis-Hollander, author of the forthcoming book "Tomato: A Fresh-from-the-Vine Cookbook." "Big, broad, lots of nice taste, but not as focused as some of the tomatoes that are less meaty."

These are juicy tomatoes, with lots of water. Beefsteaks come in more than 350 varieties. Often called "slicers" because of their size and meaty texture, these tomatoes are great stacked on a hamburger or BLT, or carved into wedges and sprinkled with salt. Or let them form the centerpiece of the meal.

"There's nothing like a big tomato on the center of your plate, or stuffed or served with balsamic and buffalo motz (mozzarella)," says Mark Toigo, a tomato specialist for Toigo Orchards in Shippensburg, Pa.

BUSH TOMATOES

Think baby Beefsteaks. These uniformly round tomatoes are racquetball-sized, with a thick skin. They make a distinctive "pop" when bitten into. Prized throughout Europe and the Middle East for their rich flavor and juicy, explosive texture, their smaller size also makes them perfect for individual consumption.

Early Girl and Czech Bush varieties are relatively common. Sometimes called "saladettes," they make bite-sized wedges perfect for salads or snacking.

PLUMS OR ROMAS

The thick-walled, oblong plum tomato is synonymous with Italy. Known in supermarkets primarily as Roma tomatoes, these big-sweet, big-acid tomatoes are known for their chewy flesh and low water content. Which makes them perfect for tomato sauce.

These tomatoes also can be used for quick saute dishes or in fresh salads where you don't want excess moisture. They offer longer shelf life than moister tomatoes.




"Throw them in a basket and this becomes your go-to tomato," Toigo says. " CHERRY AND OTHER TINY TOMATOES

Generally, the smaller the fruit, the bigger the sugar. That's one reason the tiny tomato industry has boomed in recent years.

Cherry tomatoes run about an inch in diameter and traditionally are the most delicate and complex of the small tomatoes. Growers — and eaters — love the Sungold for its delicate orange tint and fruity, almost tropical flavor, says Josh Kirschenbaum, product development director for Territorial Seed Company in Cottage Grove, Ore.

The Juliet, which resembles a mini-plum tomato at roughly 2 inches long, is another favorite.

Grape tomatoes, named for their size and shape, have become grocery store standards and offer predictable, uniform sweetness.

Mini-tomatoes also can be pear- or teardrop-shaped and often come in red or yellow. These will have a slightly bland, more subtle flavor than grape or cherry tomatoes.

Currant tomatoes are about 1/4 inch in diameter and are intensely sweet. They have a flavor Kirschenbaum describes as "smoky." Lucky shoppers may find white currants, tiny white tomatoes with a yellow blush.

Generally known as "snacking" tomatoes, mini-tomatoes are great skewered for shish kebabs or briefly sauteed for a pasta sauce.

BLACK TOMATOES

Among the more exotic summer offerings are "black" tomatoes, which sport a deep purple color and run from plum-sized up to nearly a pound. They generally have a rich, almost salty taste, says Davis-Hollander.

The Cherokee Purple offers big flavor, as does the Black Krim, which is softer and juicier than the Cherokee. These tomatoes make beautiful caprese or tomato salad, and delicious salsa. Eat them simply, with minimal adornment, to preserve their nuanced flavors.

BI-COLORS

These super-juicy, gigantic tomatoes — up to 2 pounds — tend to be yellow with a red or orange blush, Davis-Hollander says. They have a big, fruity flavor with little of the acid associated with traditional tomato flavor.

GREEN, YELLOW AND ORANGE TOMATOES

Green tomatoes — meaning those that ripen to a gentle shade of green — generally offer an almost spicy taste, Davis-Hollander says.

Among the most popular is the Green Zebra, a slightly firm tomato with yellow-green skin and purplish stripes that runs roughly 2 inches around. Aunt Ruby's German Greens are softer and can weigh in at a pound or more.

Yellow tomatoes tend to be sweeter and less acidic, with a generally mild flavor, Kirschenbaum says. Orange tomatoes, offer a rich orange color and mild fruity flavor, Davis-Hollander says, without the acidity associated with classic tomato flavor.

For all of these, bask in their colorful glory. Generally too mild to withstand much cooking, these tomatoes should be served raw on a platter, possibly drizzled with olive oil and salt.

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